I have an Axiom 12 Pro and Axiom 9 (display only). Before the last update (week ago) on both units, all was fine. The 12 was set up as the data master prior to update. Now the 9 does not acknowledge the 12 and shows itself as the date master. Also, new waypoints installed did not save to the unit and had to be re-inputted three days in a row. The 12 also got stuck in power up mode a couple of times at start up.
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[CA11] Axiom 12 and Axiom 9 not communicating
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[CA11] MFD Stylus Pen
My fat fingers have a hard time selecting points on the chart. Does anyone know of a stylus pen that will work on the e125 MFD? I have tried several with no luck.
Steve
Steve
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Axiom units chane from ft/miles to m/km
Hi have Axiom 12 and have units set up as ft,nautical miles ,temp F
have noticed on say 30 % of my trips that the units change to metric on there own . I then go back to settings and change them back.
Is there any reason for this happening or is their something else I can do to correct this so it does not happen. when it happens I am not doing anything but glance down and it is showing distance to way point in metric.
Note I have the Bermuda software installed about 3 weeks ago this has happened since June and just this past weekend
have noticed on say 30 % of my trips that the units change to metric on there own . I then go back to settings and change them back.
Is there any reason for this happening or is their something else I can do to correct this so it does not happen. when it happens I am not doing anything but glance down and it is showing distance to way point in metric.
Note I have the Bermuda software installed about 3 weeks ago this has happened since June and just this past weekend
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[TG11] Upgrade E Series Classic Slave
I have an E120 with an E80 slave at the helm. GPS, compass, radar etc. go to the E120. The card reader on the E120 is broken, so the chart card is in the E80. I have had no problems with the system, but wanted to upgrade from V2.30 to V5.69 as I have installed a Raymarine AIS700 transponder.
I upgraded the E80 (as only its card reader works), but when I tried to upgrade the E120 (using Ethernet option) I got a message that the E80 could not communicate with the E120.
Now, as the two units have different software, the chart does not show on the E120. (This effect is mentioned on some other thread.)
What should I do? Roll back the update and upgrade the slave first? If so, how?
I upgraded the E80 (as only its card reader works), but when I tried to upgrade the E120 (using Ethernet option) I got a message that the E80 could not communicate with the E120.
Now, as the two units have different software, the chart does not show on the E120. (This effect is mentioned on some other thread.)
What should I do? Roll back the update and upgrade the slave first? If so, how?
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[CA11] No Wind Vane Mode on Evolution Autopilot
I recently purchased a Catalina 315 with Raymarine instrumentation. Although wind information is available on the network and also the MFD can control the Autopilot, wind vane mode is unavailable. Everything else in the system seems to work well. I have attached a diagram of the Network
![.pdf]()
Catalina 315 Raymarine Network.pdf (Size: 430.66 KB / Downloads: 2)
Catalina 315 Raymarine Network.pdf (Size: 430.66 KB / Downloads: 2)
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[CA11] New to Raymarine Products
I'm thinking of buying the Raymarine Axiom 7 but am not sure of which unit to buy. I know I want it to have RealVision 3D, but i'm not sure if I need one of the "charts" listed on the homepage. The choices on the page are LNC, NAG, and CSA. I pretty much only fish small lakes, most of which are not mapped. Any suggestions for which chart? Or do I even need one. Also, there is an option for an RV-100 transducer. Is this required for the RealVision 3D? or is the included transducer enough.
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[CA11] E80 Not Displaying Charts
Hi, My E80 stopped displaying complete charts and now only displays the basic world chart. I pulled the chip and reinserted as well as restarting the unit but no luck. Any suggestions for how to resolve would be appreciated.
thanks
thanks
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[CA11] AIS700 VSWR Fault
New installed Raymarine Axiom XL System on Yellowfin 36. Install was performed with help from Raymarine field rep. Getting external AIS, VSWR fault. Receiving data ok, transmitting is spotty. Seems to work ok while stationary at the dock but warning after warning while running and light turns red instead of green.
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[CA11] Enter waypoint by bluetooth
I have a new tacktick system. Can I enter waypoints from my iPad using iNavX?
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[CA11] C-80 COG after Factory reset
I accidentally did a factory reset on m Classic C-80. I have been able to get every thing set back up the way I had it previously to the reset except that it is not displaying a Course Over Ground now. If I engage the auto pilot and "Go Too" the curser it will track correctly and display the course over ground in the display bar, but will not show the green COG indicating line on the display. When the auto pilot is disengaged it does not show any COG info. Everything worked great until I hit the factory reset and I have gone through everything in the menu over and over and I can't figure out what setting is not right. Can you Help?
Thanks, Doug
Thanks, Doug
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[CA11] How to change backlight setting on ST7001+
My boat has an ST7001+ control head for the SPX30 autopilot. To change the back light level the manual says to press and hold the "Disp" button for 2 seconds, but all this does is change the page.
I'd really like to get the back light level changed as it is stuck on the lowest setting and impossible for me to read at night.
I'd really like to get the back light level changed as it is stuck on the lowest setting and impossible for me to read at night.
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[CA11] radar
Is a RD424 radome compatible with the MFD e127?
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[CA11] Auto Pilot pump conundrum
I may have an issue on hand. I have a 1994 Carver 390CPMY that had a RAYPILOT 650 installed with a type 1 pump. I bought the EV200 by the size of the pump that was on the bot lady installed.
I recently installed an Evolution EV200 system. It appears the autopilot stalls at some points. I did some looking about, and (FINALLY!) found a sticker on the SEASTAR hydraulic cylinder that gave me part # BA135-7ATM (HC5313) I did some research, and see that it displaces 8.3 cu/in or 135.3cc. I do believe this is per cylinder. I have TWO cylinders. From what I see, this places me not only in the NEXT category of pumps, to a Type II pump, but also a ACU of ACU 400 rather than the 200? Can you please confirm, if my sad news is correct? If the news is not what I wish to hear, Can I add just a TYPE II pump to this system without buying a new ACU upgrade to the 400?
Thank you as always.
![.jpeg]()
23B792DF-5DFF-4593-BFDA-A28FB0E45EF3.jpeg (Size: 1.86 MB / Downloads: 1)
![.jpeg]()
BAEAA639-1EEC-41C6-BB96-96A9D1871D6E.jpeg (Size: 1.92 MB / Downloads: 2)
I recently installed an Evolution EV200 system. It appears the autopilot stalls at some points. I did some looking about, and (FINALLY!) found a sticker on the SEASTAR hydraulic cylinder that gave me part # BA135-7ATM (HC5313) I did some research, and see that it displaces 8.3 cu/in or 135.3cc. I do believe this is per cylinder. I have TWO cylinders. From what I see, this places me not only in the NEXT category of pumps, to a Type II pump, but also a ACU of ACU 400 rather than the 200? Can you please confirm, if my sad news is correct? If the news is not what I wish to hear, Can I add just a TYPE II pump to this system without buying a new ACU upgrade to the 400?
Thank you as always.
23B792DF-5DFF-4593-BFDA-A28FB0E45EF3.jpeg (Size: 1.86 MB / Downloads: 1)
BAEAA639-1EEC-41C6-BB96-96A9D1871D6E.jpeg (Size: 1.92 MB / Downloads: 2)
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[CA11] Replacing C80 with Axiom 7
I am replacing my C80 with an Axiom 7. The C80 has the three wire hook-up (red, yellow, unshielded) for the network to my st60+'s. The Axiom has a pin plug. Is there an adapter for an easy replacement hook-up from the axiom plug to the three wires?
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Sounder performance - background and diagnosis
WORK-IN-PROGRESS
Introduction
We are often asked why a fishfinder/sounder/sonar might be producing a poor-quality image, or not achieving the depth performance that the owner expects. It might be that the sounder or transducer are faulty but usually they're not, and simply replacing hardware like-with-like usually won't fix the problem (unless the cause is incorrect setup on the sounder being replaced.) Here are some of the potential problems, causes and solutions distilled from more than a dozen years of successfully diagnosing these problems.
First steps
First of all, we need to ask a couple of simple questions about the problem:
What a sounder needs in order to perform well - some background
All sounders, of whatever brand, require as large as possible a difference in the signal level (voltage on the transducer cable) and the background noise level. Every electronic system contains noise (unwanted randomly fluctuating voltages in parts of the circuit) to some degree, and both the sea and boats are relatively noisy places so there will always be a background noise level: the sounder needs to be able to clearly hear the echoes from fish and the bottom above this noise. If you imagine the amount of energy contained in a sound echo coming back from a single fish 100m down, or the bottom 500m or more down, and then picture that echo moving the transducer element and that movement then inducing a voltage onto the signal cable, I think that gives a bit of an idea of the low level of the electrical signals on the transducer cables, which can be less than 0.00001V. It doesn't take a lot of either sound or electrical noise to start to cause problems.
The larger the difference in signal level between the wanted echoes and the noise (what's known as the signal-to-noise ratio, SNR), the better the sounder image.
A low SNR will always lead to a poor image:
When a sounder isn't performing to the level it was designed to, then, the cause is either lower than normal signal level or higher than normal noise. Because what matters for the sounder is SNR rather than simply overall signal level, low signal and high noise have exactly the same effect. It's like trying to have a conversation in a busy bar or a good party: it can be hard for your to hear what your mate (or date) is saying clearly even when they're yelling. By repetition the general idea of what they're saying might come across (the bottom echo), but the fine details (fish) is lost in the noise.
Do you have low signal or high noise?
At the start of this guide we advised always using Auto sensitivity for normal use on any modern sounder. This is because our automatic sensitivity algorithms do a great job, in normal conditions, of adjusting to changing conditions from one moment to the next in order to give a clear, clean, easy-to-read picture. The problem with this is that this constant auto adjustment masks the actual signal levels, so if you get a poor result (a cluttered image with a weak bottom mark for example) then you can't see whether that's because the signal level is low (causing the system to increase the Gain in order to still show a weak bottom echo, and also inadvertently show background noise as well) or because the background noise is high (causing the system to drop the Gain in order to try to keep the noise off the screen, and inadvertently hiding all but the strongest bottom echo at the same time.)
What we need to do instead is use all-Manual setup.
Before we start: you should never do this for normal day-to-day use (unless you are an expert charter skipper who spends 200+ days a year on the water), but it's the only way to see for sure whether the cause of your problem is low signal level or high noise.
Here are recommended levels for diagnosing problems in all current (late 2019) sounder models. If you have something older, see the appendix at the bottom for the right settings for your system). XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.
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Whats_wrong_with_Classic_White.png (Size: 221.18 KB / Downloads: 3)
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Depth_range_comparison-2018.png (Size: 193.38 KB / Downloads: 3)
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IMG_1970-cropped.jpg (Size: 158.31 KB / Downloads: 3)
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Auto-In_hull_through_cored_hull-scaled.jpg (Size: 156.53 KB / Downloads: 4)
Introduction
We are often asked why a fishfinder/sounder/sonar might be producing a poor-quality image, or not achieving the depth performance that the owner expects. It might be that the sounder or transducer are faulty but usually they're not, and simply replacing hardware like-with-like usually won't fix the problem (unless the cause is incorrect setup on the sounder being replaced.) Here are some of the potential problems, causes and solutions distilled from more than a dozen years of successfully diagnosing these problems.
First steps
First of all, we need to ask a couple of simple questions about the problem:
- Does the problem still happen when the sounder is in its default/auto setup?
Try doing a sounder reset through the display's menu, going to Sensitivity Settings and All to Auto, and making sure that Range is on Auto too. How does that change things? A lot of the time image problems are just setup so going back to defaults is a good sanity check.
If the sounder is constantly cycling through a range of depth scales which are significantly different from the current water depth then it's in bottom search mode, where it's looking at various ranges to reacquire the bottom lock in Auto Range:
- Is the sounder operating within its expected capabilities (range)?
Not all sounders and transducers are equal. Some are aimed at high detail in shallow water, some at value-for-money, and some at offshore performance. Do you have the right system for the depth of water you want to fish in? The below gives example absolute maximum depths for some Raymarine sounder technology types, and you can find transducer-specific information by searching for your transducer type on Airmar's cross-reference, clicking through the Description column to the product page and then opening the transducer's Brochure link (Airmar make most of the transducers we use). I would suggest halving these numbers for depths where you'll get a nice image for fishing as opposed to just seeing a thin bottom trace:
If you're getting nowhere close to the expected level of performance for the sounder and transducer that you have, read on.
What a sounder needs in order to perform well - some background
All sounders, of whatever brand, require as large as possible a difference in the signal level (voltage on the transducer cable) and the background noise level. Every electronic system contains noise (unwanted randomly fluctuating voltages in parts of the circuit) to some degree, and both the sea and boats are relatively noisy places so there will always be a background noise level: the sounder needs to be able to clearly hear the echoes from fish and the bottom above this noise. If you imagine the amount of energy contained in a sound echo coming back from a single fish 100m down, or the bottom 500m or more down, and then picture that echo moving the transducer element and that movement then inducing a voltage onto the signal cable, I think that gives a bit of an idea of the low level of the electrical signals on the transducer cables, which can be less than 0.00001V. It doesn't take a lot of either sound or electrical noise to start to cause problems.
The larger the difference in signal level between the wanted echoes and the noise (what's known as the signal-to-noise ratio, SNR), the better the sounder image.
A low SNR will always lead to a poor image:
- smaller/weaker targets being missed
- excessive clutter in the water column
- failure to track the bottom in deeper water (when the signal levels are lower)
- failure to track the bottom at higher speeds (when the noise levels are higher)
- ...
When a sounder isn't performing to the level it was designed to, then, the cause is either lower than normal signal level or higher than normal noise. Because what matters for the sounder is SNR rather than simply overall signal level, low signal and high noise have exactly the same effect. It's like trying to have a conversation in a busy bar or a good party: it can be hard for your to hear what your mate (or date) is saying clearly even when they're yelling. By repetition the general idea of what they're saying might come across (the bottom echo), but the fine details (fish) is lost in the noise.
Do you have low signal or high noise?
At the start of this guide we advised always using Auto sensitivity for normal use on any modern sounder. This is because our automatic sensitivity algorithms do a great job, in normal conditions, of adjusting to changing conditions from one moment to the next in order to give a clear, clean, easy-to-read picture. The problem with this is that this constant auto adjustment masks the actual signal levels, so if you get a poor result (a cluttered image with a weak bottom mark for example) then you can't see whether that's because the signal level is low (causing the system to increase the Gain in order to still show a weak bottom echo, and also inadvertently show background noise as well) or because the background noise is high (causing the system to drop the Gain in order to try to keep the noise off the screen, and inadvertently hiding all but the strongest bottom echo at the same time.)
What we need to do instead is use all-Manual setup.
Before we start: you should never do this for normal day-to-day use (unless you are an expert charter skipper who spends 200+ days a year on the water), but it's the only way to see for sure whether the cause of your problem is low signal level or high noise.
Here are recommended levels for diagnosing problems in all current (late 2019) sounder models. If you have something older, see the appendix at the bottom for the right settings for your system). XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.
-
From the Home screen:
- First, please set up a sounder page with at least two sounder channels displayed (for example, if you have a CP470, a two-way split with both Low Chirp and High Chirp at the same time would be great. If you have an RV system, Sonar and Downvision would be good. The idea is to compare the results from the two channels (frequencies.)
From your newly-configured fishfinder page, Menu > Settings > Page settings > Edit data overlays - Please set up overlays for SOG, Vessel Position and Depth (so that we can see how fast you were going and from a chart, what the correct depth ought to have been compared to what the system is measuring)
In Adjust Sensitivity, please set exactly the same Sensitivity and display configuration on each sounder channel, as below: - Gain: Manual, 65% (if you only see -50% to +50% you're still in Auto, make sure you untick the Auto box at the bottom of the gain slider)
- Intensity (Contrast, Colour Gain): Manual, 15% (again, make sure you're not still in Auto)
- Surface Filter (Noise Filter, TVG): Manual, 0%
In Menu > Settings > Sonar Display: - A-Scope: Right
- Bottom Lock: Off
- White Line: Off
- Bottom Fill: Off
- Colour Threshold: 100%
In Menu > Settings > Sounder > Ping Control: - Power Mode: 100%
If you have the right Sensitivity setup then your sounder picture ought to look something roughly like this:
Once you have the system set up correctly, it's time to go for a run and take some screenshots.. Please take lots of images on the water, ideally in the conditions you normally use it. If the sounder normally works ok when going slowly and the problem only occurs when going faster, please take images at a range of speeds from idle/engine-off up to normal cruising speed. Please use exactly the same setup (above) throughout so that we can directly compare images.
Common causes of poor performance
Whats_wrong_with_Classic_White.png (Size: 221.18 KB / Downloads: 3)
Depth_range_comparison-2018.png (Size: 193.38 KB / Downloads: 3)
IMG_1970-cropped.jpg (Size: 158.31 KB / Downloads: 3)
Auto-In_hull_through_cored_hull-scaled.jpg (Size: 156.53 KB / Downloads: 4)
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[DG11] C80 - no depth on chartploter but does show on fishfinder
Weird problem. Performed an update and also set the unit back to factory default. I didn't notice this problem immediately because I usually use the Lowrance 3500 mounted right in front of me but assume it was happening immediately after the reset. The readout on the 3500 was fading so I took a glance over at the C80 and saw dashes where the depth was. Got settled back at the dock later and tested other components and all seemed to be working fine. Figured my transducer must have tanked and put it on the "to-do" list. But, when I was out the other day I was flipping around on the pages and happened to noticed that my fish finder WAS displaying the depth.
Any ideas???
Any ideas???
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[CA11] Smartcontroller compatibility
Is the Raymarine Smartcontroller compatible with Axiom RV and Axiom Pro RVX MFD's and an EV-400 autopilot?
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[CA11] AR200
Can the AR200 be used in lieu of a RS150 and EV1 to provide position and fast heading information in a LH2 (v19.03) system?
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[CA11] how to hide waypoints linked to a route
Hi I recently have an axiom 9, with sw version 3.10.42.
When I hide a route, the waypoints associated with it, are still visible on the screen, and this cause confusion when I recall another route with different waypoints.
There is any reason why the waypoints are not automatically hidden together with the route, and how can I avoid to see them .
regards
When I hide a route, the waypoints associated with it, are still visible on the screen, and this cause confusion when I recall another route with different waypoints.
There is any reason why the waypoints are not automatically hidden together with the route, and how can I avoid to see them .
regards
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[CA11] waypoint names too long
Hi I have an axiom 9 with 3.10.42 sw version.
When I want to display on screen thye waypoint names, I get too long names
which cover other details on the screen, like i.e. "waypoint 241".
There is any way to show the number only, as the written "waypoint" is useless?
regards
When I want to display on screen thye waypoint names, I get too long names
which cover other details on the screen, like i.e. "waypoint 241".
There is any way to show the number only, as the written "waypoint" is useless?
regards
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